Face Facts
I asked a pro makeup artist every beauty question I was too embarrassed to Google
If I have to think about my first encounter with makeup, I’d have to go back to 2008.
Horrific black kajal in my inner eye rim, Pussycat Dolls’ sass playing in the background, and a pathetic crush on the insipid Jesse McCartney. Blondes were so fascinating to Italian teens — maybe because there weren’t many around where I lived? Who knows.
Anyway, I’ve always had a soft spot for makeup. A quiet, loyal crush that never quite turned into a full-blown, stable relationship. Still today, I stick to what I know: a good foundation, a trustworthy concealer, a reliable mascara, a pop of blush. Not too much, but I find it hard to go out without. I like makeup. That world truly fascinates me, but I just never felt particularly skilled at it myself.
And with my rampant ignorance on the topic, I thought it would be a good idea to talk with an expert — and maybe learn something new. I reached out to someone who embodies that joyful, expressive mastery: Marcella M.
A Sardinian-born, Rome-based makeup artist and consultant, Marcella is one of those rare people whose love for makeup is thoughtful and honest. Having lived in London, surrounded by artists of all kinds, she’s mastered her skills not just with brushes and formulas, but with attention to individuality, history, and beauty in all its forms. I interview her, asking all the questions that still make my brain burn today, from the most basic to the not-so-basic. No judgement.
G: Hi Marcella! Can you tell me a bit about yourself and what drew you to the world of makeup? Was there a moment that sparked it all?
M: Hi Giulia! Thank you for having me on The Inside Pocket. I’m a fan since you started!
I was born and raised in Sardinia (Italy), and after high school, I applied to Pharmacy and Chemistry studies, only to discover that I needed to air out completely. I moved to London where I lived for six years. I took different career paths in my life as I like many things, but all of them are interconnected in expressions, culture, and history. Makeup has always been my therapy. Since I can remember. My mum and her sisters had very unique, different styles of makeup, and they unconsciously influenced me. I first started using my mum’s cosmetics before I could even read. I used to cover my face and neck with blush and sing in front of the mirror, and I remember thinking I looked so pretty!
However, the spark, or actual fire, that led me to pursue makeup as a career was, of course, other artists I met in London. I was surrounded by musicians, art directors, actors, producers, you name it, and for them it’s always been obvious who I could be; they saw me and pushed me before I could. I am forever grateful for the people I met there. I am now based in Rome as a freelance makeup artist and consultant.
G: And you’re doing amazing! I just hope I’m not bothering you too much with my (very) basic questions. Definitely not as adventurous as your London beauty adventures. One thing I still haven’t quite figured out is how to actually choose the right foundation shade. I usually just grab one with zero criteria and hope for the best… Are there any foolproof tricks that really work?
M: This will always be a relevant question. It is a process that involves experimenting a little bit and I understand it is not easy for everyone if never done before. My best recommendation would be to go in store and get help from a professional, they are there for you! However, I’ve learned from clients that not every city has retailers who are trained makeup artists, so in-store testing relies on swatching products on your face, identifying your undertone, and checking the match in natural light once the formula has dried, as some can shift. The veins or whether we suit silver or gold better are helpful to determine if we’re warm, cool, or neutral beforehand. Yet, I personally think swatching 2–3 shades and look for the one that blends into both your face and neck is key as you are able to confront the difference when they are blended next to one another. If you're between shades, remember you can mix or adjust with bronzer or concealer and even powder. If you already own a foundation that matches your skin tone but you’d like to try a new one from a different brand, bring that around with you for confrontation. Extra pro tip: have color adjuster as blue to cool it down, yellow, dark orange and red to warm it up you need very very little amount and it will make a huge difference! LA Girl and Elf cosmetics have great ones.
Some of my favourite foundation-inclusive brands are Nars, House Labs, Fenty Beauty, L’oreal Paris, Mac cosmetics, Estee Lauder.
G: And what about concealer? Should it be lighter than our foundation, or does that depend on what we’re trying to cover?
M: It absolutely depends on what we’re trying to cover. For spot concealing blemishes or redness, stick to a shade that matches your foundation exactly, so it blends seamlessly. To correct heavier discoloration you might use the color corrector/adjuster recommended above mixed into the concealer to neutralize the interested areas. If you're brightening under the eyes, go 1–2 shades lighter than your foundation to lift and awaken the area—but never too light than your skin tone especially if you have deep under eye circles, or it can look ashy.
Some of my favourite concealers are Nars Radiant Creamy, Armani Luminous silk concealer, Maybelline Instant Age Rewind, Too Faced Born This Way, Kosås Revealer, Natasha Denona Hy Glam Concealer.
G: A personal crusade of mine, please help — how do I avoid the cracks and creases under my eyes? Why do they keep happening, and how do I make them stop?
M: Love this question, it’s a hot one. Many people struggle with that! The truth is: creasing is normal. I know, terrible news.
The skin under our eyes is thinner, drier, and naturally moves a lot which is great — it means we smile and laugh and are happy! Also it may happen because we put way too much product that might not be necessary and formulas go in conflict with each other by mixing and never setting in layers. With the right prep and technique, you can seriously reduce it. Start by understanding your skin type: dry, dehydrated, combination, oily? What about the climate you live in? Creasing might change during seasons. Once you get that figured it out, start applying a lightweight, hydrating eye cream if you have drier under-eyes or a milky toner is just enough if you are on the oilier side. Let it set! Then go in with a small amount of concealer (really, less is more!). If you have a really dry area use a creamy, hydrating formula and blend it gently with your finger or a brush. If you have normal or oilier area you can use drier long lasting formulas what’s important is to apply thin layers on top of each other and not too close to the lash line, blend very very well. Let it sit for about a minute so it can set. Then tap out any creases with your finger before setting it with a powder. Use a small amount of loose powder and press it in lightly, don’t over do it, or it will dry out the area even more. Correct hydration, thin layers, and smart setting are key. It’s not about stopping all creases just keeping the area smooth, fresh, and comfortable all day.
G: Another ghost in my makeup bag is the Primer. I never used one because I’ve always thought it would make my makeup too heavy… Is it a non-negotiable or just another unnecessary step? Be honest.
M: Skincare is your first primer ever. No makeup can save you if your skin is not well taken care of. I think primer isn’t a non-negotiable, but it’s not just hype either. It all depends on your skin and what you want your makeup to do. If your base already lasts all day, sits well, and your skin is balanced, you might not need one. But if you’re dealing with things like excess oil, dryness, uneven texture, or foundation that fades too fast, the right primer can seriously improve performance. Think of it more like skincare-meets-makeup: it preps the canvas to receive colors. Some blur pores, control shine, or grip foundation in place. Others add glow or hydration, so it’s less about adding weight and more about targeted support.
Smashbox Photo Finish Matt, Glow and Smooth primers are great. Another personal favourite is also Danessa Myricks’s one. Very popular ones are also: Milk Hydro grip, Huda Beauty easy blur.
G: I completely agree with you—good skin prep really is the best primer. It makes such a difference! That’s actually why I wanted to ask: would you mind sharing your thoughts on the products I’m currently using in my routine? I am dying to know what you think about it.
M: Honestly, your routine is super balanced. You’ve got everything covered from gentle cleansing to exfoliation, hydration, barrier repair, and sun protection. RHODE Glazing Milk and Barrier butter really shine when it comes to boosting hydration. The Super Healthy Skin Anti-Aging Cream from Beauty Pie gives your routine an extra boost of moisture and anti-aging power, perfect for keeping your skin firm and smooth. CELIMAX provides excellent support with its gentle cleanser and targeted Energy Serum, and the SANA eye cream is a nice addition for caring for the delicate under-eye area. The sunscreen ties it all together; daily protection is a must! Overall, you seem to have a great solid routine for maintaining healthy, hydrated, and glowing skin. I'm impressed!
G: What’s a common horror thing you see people make with their everyday makeup, and how can we fix it?
M: Well, the queen of horrors is: not cleaning makeup brushes regularly. Hygiene must be a priority. Something that I often see and encourage avoiding is swiping violently skincare products and makeup on the face or on the eyes just to be quick. Flawless, long lasting makeup without cutting time for it is not right and hard to achieve unless you already have flawless skin and optimal external conditions.
G: Is there a technique you always come back to? Something small but transformative that more people should be doing?
M: I love gentle exfoliation before makeup application. Removing dead skin cells helps smooth texture, reduce flakiness, and allows skincare and foundation to blend more evenly and grip better throughout the day. The Medicube Zero Pore pads or the First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance pads are a non negotiable for me and my clients. They're effective yet non-stripping, which makes them safe even right before makeup application. It’s a small step, but the impact on overall finish and longevity is huge. A smooth, prepped canvas is half the work.
G: What would you say to someone who insists they’re just “not good at makeup”? Where should they start?
M: I’d say I understand, and to be patient. Even those who are born with a talent for makeup, or sketching, or painting (or anything really) need practice. If you are just starting, just focus on what you like the most. Maybe is the lips, lip liners, lipsticks, glosses, or perhaps it's eyeliner or eyebrows. Start small, with one, practice a lot, and experiment. Eyeliner can go wrong only for a limited amount of times, I promise that if you keep doing it, you will get better daily. Also, I find that recreating looks you see on people that you like or that look similar to what you are looking for at the moment is beneficial; you may copy them at the beginning and eventually find your style.
G: What’s your take on viral skincare brands like Rhode and just in general Korean skincare? Do they really deliver or is it mostly marketing? And which overhyped makeup or skincare products don’t live up to the hype, versus ones that truly do?
M: There’s definitely strong marketing behind brands like Rhode and just in general Korean skincare, but many products genuinely deliver—especially for hydration, glow, and barrier support. Rhode’s glazing milk and Korean products like essence toners and SPF are standout examples, offering innovation and accessibility. That said, viral doesn’t mean perfect for everyone; sometimes skin needs more targeted care.
As for overhyped products, I’m not a fan of dewy makeup like blush balms—they stay sticky and don’t last. Caudalie’s mists irritate my skin despite the brand’s overall good reputation. On the other hand, Makeup By Mario’s neutral eyeshadow palette is beautiful and practical, and Haru Haru Wonder’s probiotics barrier toner is hydrating, calming, and great for all skin types.
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G: Is there a cheap trick, hack, or under £10 product that always does the job?
M: My cheap trick has always been one: blend your products on your clean palm with your brush before applying it to the skin. This is how you do thin layers and control application. A makeup hack I learned in makeup school was to scrap a bit of satin eyeshadow or highlighter and mix it with moisturizer to have a glow base under foundation, it does look beautiful on the body as well.
G: Can you share a little selection of your current favourite products? The ones you’re reaching for again and again, whether it’s for clients or your own kit?
M: No matter what I am taking with me my BIORE UV Aqua Rich SPF 50 and probably a product to keep my brows in place like Benefit Cosmetics 24h brow setter as it makes me feel put together instantly.
The spf I mentioned from BIORE is a product I’ve been using for a long time that I keep coming back to for me and my kit, alongside SVR Baume Demaquillant to remove makeup or simply deeply cleanse the skin that also needs extra care and hydration. Nabla’s Cupid’s Arrow are my best allies for eyes and lips with Skin Realist skin tint they never let me down, been having them in my kit for years and will always be my favorite to wear and work with. My favourite tools to use are Rephr brushes and Mac Cosmetics single eyelash curler, I never worry if I’m working with them in my hands. For complexion I am in owe of the DIOR Backstage Glow Face palette, it’s just perfect to have in my kit, everybody loves it. Kryolan setting spray for extra super duper makeup hold on special occasion or effects, the best in the market.
G: What’s the one thing you wish more people asked about makeup?
M: I wish more people asked about where makeup really comes from, its history, its meaning, and why it still matters beyond just aesthetics. Makeup has always been so much more than beauty. It’s been used for power, protection, identity, ritual, and expression from ancient Egypt and Japan to drag culture and red carpets today. We talk so much about trends and products, but rarely about how makeup shapes how we see ourselves and how the world sees us. It’s easy to reduce it to vanity, but makeup has always been a tool for transformation, sometimes subtle, sometimes radical. And that’s powerful. I think if more people understood that context, they’d approach it with more curiosity, less judgment, and maybe even more joy.
G: After these years working in makeup, what’s one belief or philosophy you always come back to—whether you’re doing your own face or someone else’s?
M: Honestly, it’s that makeup should feel like care and fun, not correction. Whether I’m working with a client or just doing my own routine, I always come back to the idea that makeup isn’t about fixing flaws it’s about feeling like yourself, amplified. I’ve seen people light up from a touch of concealer and a bit of glow or transform them in zombies similar to what they see on the big screens. It’s not superficial, it’s emotional. No trend or technique will ever replace that feeling and that’s what keeps me excited about this work every single day.
The power and history behind makeup are incredibly fascinating—more than just colours and textures, it's a world shaped by culture, identity, and self-expression. Over the next few months, we’ll be diving deeper into this universe, uncovering surprising facts, timeless rituals, and the evolution of beauty through the ages. Stay tuned!
I hope you enjoyed this beauty journey with Marcella and me. If you have any makeup or skincare questions, or topics you’d love us to explore next, please drop them in the comments, we’d love to hear from you!
You can shop Marcella’s favourites here. And my essentials here and here.
Thank you for reading The Inside Pocket,
Giulia xx
This was so good! I'm no makeup pro either and usually feel more comfortable in a less complicated makeup look, but learnt so much from these tips!
What an excellent interview, Giulia! I also feel like make-up is dismissed as shallow and frivolous, but it can really be an empowering tool in communicating who we are.