My Mini Roman Guide
How the make the most of it in the Eternal City plus the original carbonara recipe
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Who doesn’t love Rome?
The Eternal City has a charm all of its own. The cobbled roads, the warm lights, and a piece of history on every corner make it one of my favourite cities in the world, with a warmth that’s truly unbeatable.
Not only is Rome full of beauty and history, but it’s also one of those cities with such a strong personality, it makes you feel like it’s still the centre of the world.
To be totally honest with you, there’s nowhere I go in Italy that doesn’t make me feel a little sentimental. My Italian romanticism always creeps in and hits me straight in the face, making me miss my childhood and bringing up all sorts of memories and feelings. This time, even more so, as I was there to meet up with my family—a very short trip where everyone was just happy to be together, and one that ended up creating a whole new core memory for me.
And even though Rome is one of those cities that will never stop surprising you (and for which no number of recommendations could ever be enough) I still wanted to bring my two cents to the table. Here’s a list of my favourite activities and places to visit if you happen to be there: genuine and Italian-approved suggestions that are a little different from the usual touristy spots. Especially great if you’re short on time or if it’s not your first visit. Hope you will enjoy!
Art & Walks
When they say that Rome is an open-air museum, they’re not wrong. Everywhere you go, you’ll be stunned by old buildings and little details that make you feel like you’re travelling back in time. So my biggest piece of advice? Walk. Choose the right neighbourhoods: Trastevere, Monti, and Prati are great starting points, and just look around you. And of course, don’t miss the major landmarks: the Colosseum, the Spanish Steps, a stroll up to the beautiful gardens of Villa Borghese, and a visit to its museum.
One of my favourite things to do is to step into any church I come across. Rome is said to have over 900 churches, making it the city with the most churches in the world. Each one is special in its own way, and you might find yourself face to face with masterpieces by the greatest artists in Italian history like Michelangelo, Bernini, Caravaggio and Raphael. A personal favourite of mine (and far less crowded) is the Basilica of Saint Mary above Minerva.
Walk everywhere, get lost in the little streets, and observe. People, walls, door knockers! Remember: beauty can literally be found everywhere.
This time, I visited the Church of Sant’Ignazio and the small museum of his chambers, just next to the church. Designed by both Michelangelo and Jacopo Barozzi, the painted walls will absolutely blow you away. Arrive just before 4pm to enjoy it without too many people around. Oh, and it’s free!
Another lovely and quite underrated museum is definitely Palazzo Barberini, where you’ll have the chance to see some of Caravaggio’s most famous works. The building hides some charming little gardens and even a small bar, perfect for a light brunch. Inside, there’s a white marble staircase that will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairytale. They host a permanent collection, so even if you miss the Caravaggio exhibit on until 6th July, you’ll still get to experience this magnificent space, with the highest ceilings I’ve ever seen in my life. Absolutely worth a visit, especially if you’d rather skip the queues at the Sistine Chapel.
If you are reading this newsletter you probably love fashion, so please don’t miss the Fondazione Valentino Garavani in Piazza Mignanelli 23: an art and fashion space curated by Valentino himself. And if you’re a Dolce & Gabbana fan, stroll over to Palazzo delle Esposizioni for the exhibition Dal Cuore alle Mani (From the Heart to the Hands), a tribute to Italian artisanal fashion.
Vintage & Antiques
The most famous flea market in Rome is obviously Porta Portese: a long stretch filled with all sorts of stalls run by sellers from all over the world. It takes place every Sunday and is also one of the busiest places on Earth. If you're after a cheap bargain, it's the place for you, but with time and popularity, I have to admit the quality of the selection has gone down quite a bit. Worth a visit if you’ve never been, but if you're short on time, I’d recommend taking a walk around the Monti neighbourhood instead.
Not only will this neighbourhood make you feel like you’re in a Fellini movie, it’s vibrant, full of small bars and cafés, but it also happens to host the best vintage and antique small independent shops.
Make sure not to miss Cavalli & Nastri for the most amazing jewellery and brooches by Giorgio Armani, Prada, Gucci, Kenneth Jay Lane, and some incredible vintage dresses by Christian Dior. This is where I found this stunning Nina Ricci gold and shell brooch.
Be sure to visit the lovely Katia at her vintage store La Stracciarola Geniale, where I spotted this incredible 70s Fendi bag, which by the way, was only 400 euros. A total steal for its rarity and condition. I still think about it, as I didn’t have time to go back and bring it with me to London!
Walk down to Pifebo Vintage Shop and King Size too. The vibe here is more rock ’n’ roll, but there are some gems not to be missed. I managed to get my hands on these stunning Bottega Veneta sunglasses for just 60 euros.
And of course, for my jewellery girls, I cannot leave out the GOAT of artisanal fashion jewellery and vintage: Fabio Piccioni. Think beautiful bangles, long chains, pearls, brooches, and so much more. The shop, located on Via del Boschetto, is tiny but packed to the brim you could easily spend hours there.
If you’re more into bringing home a piece of history or something to accessorise your home, stay around Via dell’Angoletto and pay a visit to L’Angelus, along with the many other antique shops scattered between Via dei Serpenti and Via del Boschetto. You won’t be disappointed. Just look at these incredible silverware pieces, seashells, and quirky finds like this sausage dog lamp lol.
Carbs & More Carbs
Rome is the home of masterpieces of Italian cuisine like pasta alla carbonara, pasta alla gricia, and pasta all’amatriciana. I won’t take your precious time Italian-explaining the difference among all of those, but if you are visiting, you must try at least one of them. Or, you can do as I do and order one of each every time and reach a food coma so intense that you will dream of rigatoni for a week.
So, considering there are sooooo many trattorias in Rome, where should you eat? To be honest with you, no matter which little restaurant you land in, you are going to eat well. If you want the full Roman experience, look for trattorias and osterias, known to be the more genuine and bullshit-free places.
What I tried this time, instead of the classic and risk-free Osteria da Fortunata, is Calligola, a place in the beautiful Prati neighbourhood. I tried the trifecta of Roman traditional cuisine and I can testify that it was absolutely majestic. Prices are also surprisingly honest.
Another place that I would go to over and over again is the beautiful Trattoria Al Moro, around since 1929, which is just behind the beautiful Trevi Fountain. An absolute institution.
Honest Tips
A couple of tips I feel like giving you to help you move like a local and save you some stress:
No spritz should cost you more than €10. If it does, go somewhere else. It might be too touristy.
Don’t rely on Rome’s public transport. The vibe is pretty anarchic and chaotic, That bus might not come, and there’s no way to predict it. This is how we roll.
The tube is more consistent and easier to take. Line A works well but can get very overcrowded. Plan ahead and leave some buffer time for delays!
Romans invented running water in ancient times. All the fountains around the city offer amazing, drinkable water, don’t miss out!
Roman pizza is amazing! It’s different from the Neapolitan one. Grab your pinsa in one of the many ovens (forni) you’ll find around the city. You won’t be disappointed, and it’s the perfect street food.
Bonus Track
I feel like everyone deserves to know what a real carbonara is made of, especially in a world full of ready-made sauces and “creative reinterpretations.” So, in the name of authenticity (and pasta love), here’s a step-by-step recipe you can turn to next time you want to wow your guests. A recipe for happiness.